A bit of extra attention can catch significant headaches before they happen

Brake lining replacements may seem straightforward, but taking the quick and easy way out may leave a driver wanting. Corrosion of obvious and concealed components is simple to diagnose and remedy, but it’s up to you to take the time.

The term pad slap refers to just replacing or slapping a new set of brake pads on a vehicle. Sometimes it’s just about saving money, but many owners hate scrapping parts that still look serviceable. Techs should remember that by the time the average Canadian vehicle is due for a new set of pads, the rotors will have built up a substantial rust coating on their outer edges where the pad doesn’t contact them. It’s easy enough to scrape off loose rust scales from the edge, but removing it from the rotor’s face without damaging the surface without the use of a lathe is much harder.

Any buildup on the face’s outer edge can cause new pads to wear unevenly. Additionally, new pads aren’t likely to ‘seat’ as effectively on the glazed surface of any rotor that’s been in service for long. This can result in the infamous city-bus brake squeal that drives neighbours nuts.

Caliper slider pins and pistons may pass the free-sliding exercise test when manipulated with a screwdriver or jaw pliers, but consider that when new pads are installed, these components will move farther back to their original positions. This is when a very small amount of corrosion can cause problems.

Check the exposed caliper piston before pushing it back into its cylinder. Any pitting can be the first sign of failure. Slider pins need to be removed to inspect, and they’re easily polished before lubricating and reinstalling them.

Another down side to the pad-slap method of brake maintenance is the lack of any service to the wheel hub because the rotor is never removed. Some automakers use a unique bevelled surface on brake rotors that makes them almost impossible to remove after as few as one or two winters on the road. Corrosion buildup on the hub’s rotor mounting surface it can even lock them so firmly in place that the rotor has to be cut off. Meanwhile, excessive heat from a torch can damage hub bearing seals before the flame loosens anything up.

Once the rotor is removed, it only takes a few minutes with an abrasive disc on an electric drill to clean things up. If you normally apply a heat-proof grease or anti-seize to this surface, use it sparingly to avoid any chance of the lubricant getting on the brake pad.

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